![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:37 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Fix it your self they said. It will be fun they said. well why the blood sweat and tears when we could have had more beers? anyway this is where i’m at. I got the hub pulled , which I can;t wait to put back on cuz i dunno how the F thats gunna happen but first this thing is stuck:
Its unbolted and all that, I’ve saturated it with PB blaster, and beat the hell out of it with a slammer (think hammer sized sledge hammer) How do I get it off? thats all that stands between me and my next unforeseen problem. I have the replacement. I probably could keep this one on but I’m a bit afraid to do that as I have been beating it with a hammer. The two things sticking out are where the brake pads slide and the two mounting bolt holes are right there. If I choose to reuse it, I have to completely disassemble the new e-brake instead of just installing it all as one piece
for refernce. the upper part of item #6 is whats stuck, the other piece is what needed to be replaced and has the entire e-brake assembly attached to it. (items 5,7,8, and 9)
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:38 |
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Sounds like you need a bigger hammer.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:42 |
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is that all there really is too it? I beat the thing for half an hour last night without any progress. Can I use a torch to heat it up or is there too much sensitive stuff around there?
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:48 |
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It’s rusted on for so many years. Soak it around the edges, tap the areas (helps the pb blaster get in between the metal), then get a deadblow hammer and hit it in alternating sides. Also try using a pry bar, but careful not to damage any important stuff like that hose or cable.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:51 |
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Yeah, it really should be it unless you’re missing something. These things fit tight. The bearing usually has to be pressed in, and that’s probably what’s holding it in place. As far as using a torch, I don’t really see a problem depending on where the CV joints are for the axle (is that an axle I’m seeing, or just a round lower control arm?). If it’s just FWD and there’s no axle, I wouldn’t be worried about it but you might want to get a second oppopinion. FWIW,
Ford recommend using a wheel puller tool
.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:51 |
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Perhaps try Mjolnir.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:55 |
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its AWD, the hubs pulled and the bearings do not need to come out. the part actually slides over the bearing housing part
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:56 |
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i’d like to leave the rest of the parts attached to the car.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 09:57 |
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Hmm... weird. I don’t know then. It shouldn’t be putting up this much of a fight.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 10:03 |
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everything seems to have more rust that you would expect
![]() 08/06/2015 at 10:16 |
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Valid concern.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 10:36 |
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See I get the appeal of DIY but seeing something like this I’d rather hand somebody a hundy and say bring it back to me fixed while I go kick back and relax.
Good luck and Godspeed!
![]() 08/06/2015 at 10:43 |
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my knuckles 100% agree with you.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 10:47 |
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Are they bloody? No pain no gain!
![]() 08/06/2015 at 11:13 |
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Is the suspension moving when you hit it with the hammer?
You might try supporting the lower ball joint with a jack when you whack it.
Beat it in both directions.
Beat it in a star pattern like you use of for lug nuts.
Consider investing in a dead blow hammer (the orange ones filled with shot are my favorite), mini-sledges are scary when they rebound.
This was probably unhelpful, good luck
![]() 08/06/2015 at 11:28 |
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there is a specific jacking point with a scissor jack under it just outside the picture to the right. the suspension does move when I hit it.
![]() 08/06/2015 at 11:28 |
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Fuckin’ Northeast winters.